Clean.
I forgot about this little story and I wanted to share it. I was showering after four days of camping, letting the water rinse out three states worth of dirt, and thinking about simultaneous cleansing of the soul, blah blah. And I had this memory of another time I was cleansed by nature, in an entirely different – and far less private – setting.
It was the summer of 2001, the summer after my freshman year of college. I was 18, studying Russian in Estonia for a month (weird, I know). I took a side trip with my teachers, Svetlana and Tatyana (Sveta y Tanya in the familiar, konyechno!), to a monastery, somewhere in the Estonian countryside. It was Russian Orthodox, literally in the middle of nowhere… I’m sure I still have my journal from that month abroad (it’s probably in the room full of boxes that I’ve still to unpack, 7 months later).
Anyway, it was a hot day. I wore a long skirt, necessary to maintain propriety in such a holy place, but incidentally also black as to be slimming. So I looked thin and sweaty the entire time. My teachers led me through a field to a sacred stream to watch baptisms and cleansings. Little did I know that “visiting” the stream would lead to my being dunked, buck ass naked in front of three other buck ass naked women, into freezing cold water.
But that’s where I was headed.
We walked into a wooden shed in a group, purposefully waiting until the women in front of us had completely clothed and exited. Tanya shut the door behind us, leaving me with three quickly disrobing Russian women (the identity of the third escapes me now) and not nearly enough darkness for me to feel comfortable.
“You want me to do what?”
“Get een zee stream.”
“Naked?”
“Da.”
One by one the women took the plunge and one by one I stripped off another layer of clothing, relegating myself to the inevitable. Soon enough, it was my turn. I stepped carefully on the wooden slabs leading into the stream, which was moving faster than I expected and felt BALLS OUT COLD (I know, I’m in school for writing, I should think of a more eloquent description, but this so fits).
The women looked at me expectantly. Now or never.
“Odin, dva, tree!”
I took the plunge. Fully underwater, hair and all, arms crossed over my chest.
Naked.
Breathing came with some difficulty when I emerged. Everyone was smiling. I was smiling. Refreshed. Clean. Naked in a stream in the middle of the Estonian countryside.
We dried off and got dressed, not really talking, but not ignoring each other either. We sat in a field next to the monastery, warming ourselves in the sun. Idyllic, yeah, totally. But honestly, I remember feeling completely at peace in a foreign land, under the spell of a semi-foreign religion, after experiencing a foreign – and temporally unique – event.
Something tactile about tonight’s shower reminded me of that day. It reminded me of home.


The city I live in has many old graveyards speckled within it, some are 4 city blocks big nestled inside tight communities. These graveyards have been full for more then 100 years; walking around or through them it is hard to find any headstones with a date of passing even in the 1920s, most are much older. To me, this is somewhat of a waste; to others it is a very sore subject.